The CONTI CAPPONI
The first time I was ever in Chianti was the most memorable. Yes, I’ve had many wonderful days in Chianti, but nothing like that first day. I was in the process of putting together my restaurant Bar Cichetti, and this was another exploratory trip. I didn’t have the wine connections that I would garner in later years, knowing so many Italian wine producers that I do these days.
Some friends set up two vineyard visits in Chianti Classico for me, my business partner, an associate of ours, and the lady Gilda who set up our meeting the Conti Capponi, and visiting the Capponi family estate - Villa Calcinaia in Greve. In the Capponi family, there are two brothers, Count Sebastaiano Capponi & his brother Nicolo. We were in Florence and had to meet Nicolo at their palazzo - Palazzo Capponi on the Arno River, just two feet from the Ponte Vecchio Bridge. Our friend Gilda is a good friend of the Capponi’s and she brought us to the Palazzo and introduced us to Conti Nicolo Capponi. When we met, I thought I was talking to Prince Charles. Nicolo was brought up with a British nanny and was educated in England, and thus when specching in English, he had an English accent. I was quite surprised when I met him. Anyway, we hopped in two cars, and drove down to Grave and the Cappoli Family wine estate - Villa Calcinaia in Greve. You take the ancient Roman road known as the Chiantigiana south out of Florence and into the heart of the Chianti Classico wine region.
We made a right, turning off the Chiantigiana road and onto the Capponi property. And just like you see in the movies, the drive leading to the Villa was tree lined on both sides of the road with majestic Cypress Trees. “Wow,” I was blown away. We arrived at the Villa, a sort of small castle, and it was lovely. The Capponi family has owned this property since 1524. The current structure of the Villa Calcinaia was built in the 1700s. Quite a place to be, and I was in awe. Nicolo took us inside. We entered the kitchen, which looked much the same as it did 300 years before. A lady was cooking at the fireplace. She was the family cook, and Nicolo introduced us to her. We chatted for a few minutes, and then Nicolo took us on a tour of the cellars. We left the kitchen and walked down a hallway, and as we approached one room, Nicolo said, “here we have Alibaba.” He was referring to the beautiful large terracotta vats that were filled with Olive Oil. Wow?
Then Nicolo said, “this is the Mother. It’s 300 years old.” Wow, again. The 300 year old mother is a starter to make vinegar. And it’s 300 years old.
Besides making wonderful Chianti wine, the Capponi family produces Tuscan Olive Oil, vinegar, Grappa, and Vin Santo wine.
Nicolo then took us to another room where white grapes were drying on racks. These grapes were for the Vin Santo, which must be dried before vinifying in order to make that “lush nectar,” that is Vin Santo (Holy Wine).
After seeing the grapes for the Vin Santo, Nicolo took us into the main cellar room where the family’s fine Chianti was aging in numerous large Slovenian Ok Casks. “Wow,” again. It made me feel amazing. Being there in the storied wine cellars of The Villa Calcinaia, in the heart of Chianti Classico. “Wow?”
Nicolo got a few glasses and opened a small spout on the cask, to draw some wine from. He then gave us each a glass, and we tasted the wine. “The Chianti.” It was marvelous, and so special, to do a barrel tasting of some Capponi Family Chianti. Quite remarkable.
Nicolo’s brother Sebastiano came into the seller, and that’s when we first met. Sebastiano has been running the winery since 1992. We met him that day in 1997, and I’ve known him ever since. He comes to New York often, to do tasting and attend Chianti events in New York, and do business promoting and selling his family;s wine. And me being in the Italian restaurant business for many years, I’ve spent time drinking wine and breaking bread with Sebastiano. His brother Nicolo is a writer and scholar, and not that involved in the wine business, as Sebastaino. I’ve never seen Nicolo in New York, though Sebastiano, I have many times over the years, and it is always a great pleasure to see him.
From the cellars, Nicolo took us outside to show us the gardens and vineyards. Quite beautiful. The to the Grand Finale of the day.
Nicolo took us to the dining room, where we were going to have lunch with the Conti Capponi brothers Sebastiano & Nicolo Capponi. Wow, can you believe that? Me Danie Bellino, dining with two Counts of one of Florence’s oldest and most noble families, The Capponi’s of Florence, Italy. And at the wine estate in Greve, Chianti Classico, Italy. How did I ever get here? Well it was a lot of hard work, and long hours working and educating myself, that found me here, having lunch with The Conti Capponi, at Villa Calcinaia, breaking bread, and drinking their Chianti, with two aristocratic, noble gentleman Conti Sebastiano Capponi and his brother Nicolo, Gilda, Maron, and Tom.
The meal was simple, and delicious. We had Tuscan Pecorino, Salami, bread, and olives for antipasto. So good. There’s nothing like tasty Italian Cheese and local Salami. Drinking Capponi family wine (Chianti) with the Capponi’s themselves, inside an ancient dining room in the Villa Calcainaia. I dipped my bread into the lush Olive Oil. This olive oil is some of the World’s finest. Yes it sounds cliche, but “It doesn’t get any better than this.” Not by a long shot. The antipasto was so good, I can still taste the Pecorino and Salami today, just thinking about it.
The antipasto was followed by a simple Pici Pomodoro, fresh homemade pasta in a tasty tomato sauce. We drank more Chianti. I was in “7th Heaven.” This was one of the most memorable days in my entire life. And still, almost 30 years later in 2025.
For the main course, we had roast chicken that we had watched the cook begin to cook over an open fire in the old kitchen. The chicken was served with roast potatoes. We kept drinking Chianti.
The Grand Finale of the meal was the Capponi’s Vin Santo, served with Biscotti. What can I say about Vin Santo? It was like putting the cherry on top as they say. We had the most wonderful meal, but if that wasn’t enough, one more wonderful thing was added. The Vin Santo. Vin Santo is a special wine of Tuscany. It is made in limited production. It is a lush flavorful wine, with a taste of apricots, hazelnuts, dried fruit, and caramel. It is brought out to drink on special occasions, and this was one. Having opened America’s 1st Venetian Wine Bar - Bar Cichetti, for doing so, I became a darling of the Italian Wine World. When we first opened Bar Cichetti, all the Italians coming to New York wanted to meet me for what I was doing. I had a love and passion for wine, as well as good knowledge, which grew year by year. And year by year, I made more and more relationships with Italian wine people. Estate owners and winemakers, and those prominent in the World of Italian Wine. I’ve been invited to many special Italian Wine Dinners, luncheons, tasting, and events. I’ve visited many wine estates all over Italy, and have become friends with the owners, and their families. And to this day, though I have had so many special times, till this day, none tops my first Italian Wine experience in Italy, meeting and having lunch with the Conti Capponi. “A very special day.”
Basta!
Excerpted from ITALIAN FOOD & TRAVELS
Daniel Bellino Zwicke - Amazon.com
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